Borgund Stave Church & Vindhellavegen Hike: Medieval Magic in Norway

I didn’t expect to feel a chill in the middle of summer, not from the breeze, but from the ancient silence inside a church older than 840 years. Later that day, I found myself wandering down a stone road that carried messages across mountains. Borgund Stave Church and the Vindhellavegen hike turned out to be the chillest day of my Norway trip!

In This Post, You’ll Discover:

🕍 Borgund Stave Church: Norway’s best-preserved medieval wooden church, full of history
🥾 Vindhellavegen Trail: a beautiful old postal road through the mountains, now one of the most scenic short hikes in the country
📍 Location: Lærdal, Western Norway — a peaceful valley surrounded by fjords and forest
💪 Difficulties: Easy

🕍 Borgund Stave Church

When I first saw the church with black wood, sharp roof lines, and dragon heads, it felt like something out of a fantasy movie. There was a calm, powerful presence in the way it firmly stood on the ground, like a wise soul who has watched centuries pass in silence, letting the world move around them, one visitor at a time.

Our guide divided us into smaller groups and led us around the outside first. We walked slowly, taking in every detail: the carved wood, the steep layered roofs, and the dragon heads that seemed to stare down at us. Then came the story behind it.

The History

Back in the 1100s, Norway wasn’t yet a united country. It was a land of scattered villages and local chiefs, where old Norse gods were still worshipped in some valleys. But things were changing. Christianity was slowly spreading, and with it came new beliefs, new rituals, and new buildings.

Borgund Stave Church was built right in the middle of that shift, between 1180 and 1250 AD, so over 800 years ago. It was a time when people in Norway were moving from old Viking beliefs to Christianity. That’s why the church has dragon heads on its roof, just like Viking ships, to protect it from evil spirits. In a way, the church itself is a blend of two eras, standing quietly at the edge where one world ended and another began.

What makes Borgund special?

It’s the best-preserved stave church in all of Norway! Out of more than 1,000 that once existed, only 28 remain today — and Borgund has survived with almost all of its original structure.

Everything was made from strong pine wood, carved by hand, and put together without nails. The wood was covered in tar to survive the cold and snow. And it did. All these years later, it’s still standing, almost exactly the way it was built.

Some say you can feel the past when you walk inside. And honestly, I believe them.

🥾 Vindhellavegen: A Walk Through Time

Just a few steps from the church, the past continues — but in a different way.

Right next to Borgund is the starting point of the Vindhellavegen trail, an old road that once carried messages, people, and even soldiers through the mountains. Today, it’s a quiet hiking path, cutting through the forest like a scene from a forgotten story.

Before the hike, I read about the area and found some interesting stories.

📜 Did You Know?

Vindhellavegen was part of the old King’s Road (Kongevegen), a main route that connected Oslo to Bergen across the mountains. People crossed the mountains on foot or horseback — no cars, no tunnels, just strong legs, powerful determination and sturdy boots.

This stretch near Borgund was built in the 1790s, during a time when Norway was improving its postal system and trade routes. Because of the steep terrain, the road was built in long, sweeping curves to help horses pull carts and carriages safely up and down the hillside. These curves are what make the trail so iconic today, like natural stone ribbons stretching through the forest.

In the mid-1800s, dynamite was available; therefore, a newer road was built, and Vindhellavegen was eventually left to nature. But instead of disappearing, it became something more peaceful — a place where hikers can experience history under their feet.

The hiking trail

After learning about its story, the moment I stepped onto the trail, I felt like I had walked straight into the past again, but this time, out in the open air. As I walked, the sounds changed. There were only the sounds of birds, wind, and my own footsteps on the uneven stones.

I couldn’t help but imagine the scene centuries ago: the echo of tired footsteps, the steady rhythm of hooves, the sharp voices of soldiers cutting through the cold mountain air.
Maybe a mail carrier rushed past with a letter tucked under their coat, not knowing it would change someone’s life.
Maybe someone was walking alone, carrying news of birth or death, hope or heartbreak.
I pictured their faces, weathered, focused, carrying more than just weight on their shoulders.

Even though the hike isn’t long or difficult, it made me slow down. It made me present. I wasn’t thinking about my phone or what was next. I was just… there.

Ending

Borgund showed me the strength of something built to last — quiet, dark, and full of memory. Vindhellavegen reminded me that every road we leave behind still holds stories.

Together, they taught me how time is both fragile and lasting. That the world keeps moving, people keep passing through, and what feels ordinary now may one day be remembered as part of something greater.

It made me think about how much can happen in a lifetime: how much joy, struggle, change, and growth a place (or a person) can hold.

We often rush through our days, forgetting that time isn’t something we control: it’s something we live inside. This day reminded me to slow down, to notice the details, to feel the wind, the silence, the history under my feet.

Because one day, this moment, this version of you, will also be part of the past.
So hold it close. Walk gently. And treasure it, while it’s yours.

❓ Summary of Borgund & Vindhellavegen

How old is Borgund Stave Church?
It was built between 1180 and 1250 AD, making it over 840 years old.

How long is the Vindhellavegen hike?
It’s a short, scenic trail of about 2–3 km with gentle slopes.

Where is it located?
Both are in Lærdal, a quiet valley in Western Norway, between Oslo and Bergen.

Is the hike suitable for beginners?
Yes! It’s easy, peaceful, and perfect for all fitness levels.